AHAs vs Retinol: Which Should You Use?

AHAs vs Retinol: Which should you use?

Thinking about brighter, smoother, younger-looking skin? You’ve probably heard of AHAs and retinol—two of the most acclaimed anti-ageing ingredients out there. But while they both promise radiant results, they work in different ways, and each have their own strengths and weaknesses. So, which one should you choose for your routine? Let’s break down the science and help you decide what fits best with your skin.

What is retinol and how does it work?

First, let’s get clear on what retinol is — it’s a form of Vitamin A that’s used in cosmetic skincare products for its anti-ageing benefits. But it also has a lot of siblings and cousins (other Vitamin A derivatives) that vary in potency and purpose1. Some sources might also refer to ‘retinols’ as a broader term that groups together all the non-prescription forms of Vitamin A. In this article, we’re only talking about retinol as a single, specific molecule

How does retinol work?

Retinol works by supporting the skin’s natural renewal process to promote fresher-looking skin and improving the appearance of premature ageing1. This means firmer skin, smoother-looking texture and visibly faded dark spots.

What are benefits of retinol for skin?

  • Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles2
  • Visibly improve skin texture and firmness2
  • Fade the appearance of hyperpigmentation2

What are AHAs and how do they work?

AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) are a group of water-soluble exfoliating acids that can be found in fruits and milk. They work by dissolving the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together on the surface, revealing fresh, glowing skin underneath3.

How do AHAs work?

AHAs gently resurface the outermost layer of your skin, making them fantastic for smoothing rough patches and boosting radiance. Two of the most popular AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid.

What are the benefits of AHA chemical exfoliants?

  • Glycolic acid benefits on skin:4 Deeply exfoliates, helps to even skin tone, and helps visibly fade dark spots.
  • Lactic acid benefits on skin:5 Exfoliates more slowly, for gentle anti-ageing benefits on the skin.
  • Smooths rough texture and visible fine lines4
  • Brightens dull skin4

AHAs vs retinol: What's the difference?

Both AHAs and retinol help reveal younger-looking, more even skin—but they take different routes to get there.

How do they differ?

  • AHAs work on the surface, making them great for fine lines, dullness, and uneven texture.
  • Retinol also improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while improving firmness and suppleness, though the evidence for its effectiveness isn’t as strong6.
  • For those prone to dryness, low-level AHAs are often a gentler choice than harsh physical scrubs. They gently exfoliate without stripping the skin barrier, helping to keep your natural hydration levels intact5,7.
  • Retinol can be irritating—especially for beginners8.

What should you consider when using AHAs or retinols?

Both AHAs and retinol are powerful ingredients—so start slow and listen to your skin.

What should first timers know?

  • Both AHAs and Retinol increase sun sensitivity. Always use SPF daily!
  • Retinol should not be used if you’re pregnant, planning pregnancy, or breastfeeding9.
  • Although both AHAs and retinol can cause irritation, retinoids are sometimes known for causing a ‘retinoid reaction’, which involves redness, itching and burning9.
  • Don’t use both at the same time unless a dermatologist tells you to. Even though there is some evidence that using them together can be effective,10 it will increase the risk of irritation.

How should you use Elucent's AHA products?

Want to get started with AHAs? Elucent’s Age Defying range makes it easy!

Tips for using Elucent AHA products:

  • Start with something gentle, like Elucent Age Defying Gel Cleanser (2% AHAs) and don't use it every day, at first. Check here for our beginner’s guide to getting started with AHAs.
  • Pay attention to concentration: take a slow, stepwise approach and only introduce new products or increase use frequency once your skin has adjusted.
  • Always apply sunscreen in the morning when using AHAs*, even on cloudy days.

*Always read the label and follow the directions for use. Avoid prolonged sun exposure and wear protective clothing, hats and eyewear to further reduce risk. Frequent re-application is required.

The bottom line: Which is best for you?

Both AHAs and retinol have science-backed benefits for anti-ageing skincare and skin exfoliation, but your choice depends on your main skin goals and what your skin can tolerate.

 

For smoother, brighter skin, AHAs are great for surface-level bounce and glow. Retinol may help with the appearance of fine lines and pigmentation, but also requires a more cautious approach.

 

If you’re unsure where to start or want to combine these powerhouse ingredients, speak with a dermatologist or healthcare professional for personalised advice.

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References

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2. Milosheska D, Roškar R. Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Adv Ther 2022;39(12):5351–75. 

3. Karwal K, Mukovozov I. Topical AHA in dermatology: Formulations, mechanisms of action, efficacy, and future perspectives. Cosmetics 2023;10(5):131. 

4. Smith W. Comparative effectiveness of α-hydroxy acids on skin properties. Int J Cosmet Sci 1996;18:75–83. 

5. Almeman A. Evaluating the efficacy and safety of alpha-hydroxy acids in dermatological practice: a comprehensive clinical and legal review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2024;17:1661–85. 

6. Spierings NMK. Evidence for the efficacy of over-the-counter vitamin A cosmetic products in the improvement of facial skin aging: A systematic review. J Clin Aesthetic Dermatol 2021;14(9):33–40. 

7. Berardesca E, Distante F, Vignoli GP, Oresajo C, Green B. Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function. Br J Dermatol 1997;137(6):934–8. 

8. Narsa AC, Suhandi C, Afidika J, Ghaliya S, Elamin KM, Wathoni N. A comprehensive review of the strategies to reduce retinoid-induced skin irritation in topical formulation. Dermatol Res Pract 2024;2024(1):5551774. 

9. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging 2006;1(4):327–48. 

10. Feinberg C, Hawkins S, Battaglia A, Weinkauf R. Comparison of anti-aging efficacy from cosmetic ingredients on photoaged skin 1. J Am Acad Dermatol 2004;50(3):P27.